Bas-Rhin - Alsace

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Inside, the 19th century astronomical clock (copied from the original 14th century design) gives a startling display, kicking off at 12.30pm with chimes, swiftly followed by a display of mechanical figures with crowing cockerels, bowing apostles and various pagan divinities representing the days of the week.

Strasbourg Cathedral at Night

Nearby is the gothic Pillar of Angels where a rather theatrical Christ poses above bugle-toting angels and apostles - it usually has a crowd around it. Other city areas with pleasing discoveries include Petite France, with cross-timbered houses in various pastel shades and Palais Rohan - carved in typically 18th century French style white stone - which houses three museums, including the sumptuous State Apartments.

From Place du Château there’s a tourist mini-train which trundles round the main land sights, while various boat trips take in the city’s traditional water features including most of the covered bridges linked by medieval watchtowers. Wissembourg by the River Lauter, at the edge of the Parc Régional des Vosges on the north German border, is all higgledy-piggledy prettiness.

La Petite France

Haut Koenigsbourg

Nearby ruined châteaux such as Fleckenstein and Falkenstein along with the sights of the Maginot line - the ill-conceived fortification line the French constructed to stop the Nazis sweeping into France - give hiking and walking opportunities a sense of purpose. Other towns worth planning a route around include Sélestat for its glittering Burgundian style tiled Eglise St Georges, and Saverne on the river Zorn for its Grand Rue laced with timber-framed houses and restaurants.

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